Swiss Bliss: The Best of Zermatt in Winter and Summer

When I was a kid, I had three posters on the wall of my bedroom: Paris, Tokyo and Zermatt, Switzerland. In the third vignette, the mighty Matterhorn pushed into a cerulean sky while a narrow wildflower-flanked path beckoned from the foreground of the image. Never have I wanted to step into a scene more. Back then, I had no idea where exactly this mountain was (this was long before Google). I just knew that one day I’d see it in real life.

One day arrived dozens of years later when I tumbled off a train in Zermatt, in Switzerland’s southern canton of Valais. Speckled with church steeples, wooden chalets and overflowing flower boxes huddled beneath skyscraping peaks, the car-free village looked as if it had come straight out of storybook central casting. But when I spotted the 14,700-foot Matterhorn, I gasped. How wild and unimaginably awesome it was to witness the two-dimensional dreams of my childhood wanderlust crystallize into reality before my eyes.

While Zermatt is known as a hot spot for skiing and après-ski, summer is spectacular too and lures a robust hiking crowd. After days spent amid some of the most picturesque alpine scenery on the planet, the village’s sleek and cozy hotels, four Michelin-star restaurants (and plenty of fondue spots), and abundant chocolate shops are a nice welcome home.

I am fortunate to have visited Switzerland and Zermatt many times since the first, and I am never less spellbound by the beauty packed into such a tiny country, or by the authentic charm of Zermatt in winter and summer — dare I say, the world’s most idyllic mountain village.

Best Activities and Travel Tips for Zermatt in Winter and Summer

Getting There

If ever there was a case to be made for the journey being as good as the destination, it’s getting to Zermatt. The town has been car-free since 1961 (talk about ahead of its time) and most people arrive by train, which is both convenient and stress-free. It’s also breathtaking as the tracks climb amid some of Switzerland’s tallest peaks.

The trip from Zurich’s main railway station to Zermatt, with a change of trains in Visp, takes a little more than three hours. For a more elaborate Swiss odyssey, the glorious Glacier Express train travels from St. Moritz to Zermatt in an 8-hour, 1,800-mile journey through the Alps.

Once in Zermatt, walking is the most popular mode of transportation. There are also e-buses, with two lines covering Zermatt, and e-Taxis.

Dining

Zermatt has 100-plus restaurants (and more up in the mountains), including four with a Michelin star. That feels remarkable for a village of just under 6,000 full-time residents, and it’s great for travelers and picky eaters looking for variety.

You can’t swing an Alpenhorn without hitting a place to dunk some bread into a pot of cheese. Family-owned Schaeferstub oozes old Swiss chalet charm; fondue and raclette take center stage alongside lamb dishes, all served in a cozy dining room.

If you prefer dinner with a side of adventure, head to Gitz-Gädi, at about 7,000 feet in the hamlet of Furi. To get there, take the Matterhorn Express gondola, exit at the last stop and then hike about 10 minutes (pro tip: bring a flashlight and leave the high heels at the hotel). The reward is a cozy wood-and-stone room in which to feast on Valais specialties such as cordon bleu. The way back to the village is either on foot or wooden sled.

After a day of hiking, biking or skiing, Alder Hitta is a welcome respite, not only for the signature rotisserie chickens and drinks but also for the pinch-me mountainside views and live music on the outdoor terrace.

You’ll find locals and visitors at Republic Zermatt, who come for the towering cheeseburgers, Swiss brews and wines as well as broadcasts of the big games.

Things to Do

If outdoor recreation is your jam, you’ve come to the right place. There’s so much terrain to explore, it’s hard to imagine checking all the boxes in one holiday.

Take a Hike

Summer in Zermatt is all about hiking and biking, and the town has roughly 400 kilometers (248 miles) of marked trails to explore, from strenuous to easy-breezy. The 5 Lakes Walk is popular for good reason. Not only are there really five lakes, but the route is a little more than six miles and accessible via gondola and funicular. The trail starts at Blauherd; to get there, take the funicular to Sunnegga, then the gondola to Blauherd.

Visit the Furi Suspension Bridge, a 100-meter-long lattice and steel-cable thriller that spans the scenic Gorner Gorge. The Furi station sits at an altitude of 6,125 feet and can be reached in five minutes on the Matterhorn Express or by cable car from Zermatt. It’s also the starting point for many hiking trails and home to some fantastic mountainside restaurants.

Stroll the Village

Walk along Bahnhofstrasse, Zermatt’s main street, chockablock with cafes, bars, boutiques, bakeries and chocolate shops. Make sure to detour down Hinterdorfstrasse, a short road where you can take a gander at the traditional wooden buildings found around the Valais region of Switzerland.

At the Matterhorn Museum, visitors can trace Zermatt’s development from a village of mountain farmers to a world-famous alpine resort via exhibits and multi-media displays, including the first ascent of the peak in the 1860s.

Snap a selfie (and tag Ciao Bambino while you’re at it!) at the Kirchbrücke bridge, which crosses the Matter Vispa River in Zermatt. The view of the majestic Matterhorn in the background is ideal for family snapshots — that is, when the mountain isn’t cloaked in clouds. Try going in the morning.

Have Lunch in Italy

Experience the highest border crossing in Europe on the Matterhorn Alpine Crossing cable car that connects Zermatt to Cervinia, Italy, in two hours. You don’t need to be a skier to pop over to Italy for lunch, or to take the exhilarating ride over glaciers and the Alps.

Ski and Snowboard

Come winter, it’s all about the snow. Zermatt is home to Europe’s highest ski station (Matterhorn Glacier Paradise) at 12,739 feet, which checks a bucket-list box for some ski enthusiasts. Speaking of bucket lists, visitors might be surprised to know that skiing is a year-round sport here. That’s right — the slopes remain open 365 days per year, even when summer is at its warmest, which might be why national ski teams congregate here during the off-season. Whether you’re a seasoned downhiller or just learning, the diversity of terrain is second to none in the Alps, with three main mountains and more than 200 miles of runs ranging from easy cruisers to expert.

Even if you’re not skiing, a visit to Matterhorn Glacier Paradise is a thrill, if only for the 360-degree views of towering peaks. If you’re lucky, you might even see Mont Blanc in France and Gran Paradiso in Italy. It takes a few different cable cars to make it to the top, but it’s worth the effort.

Board a Horse-Drawn Carriage

Winter or summer, take a tour around town with Benny, Zermatt’s beloved carriage horse. The romantic and fun outings start and finish at the train station.

Where to Stay

From upscale and designer hotels to family apartments, Zermatt accommodations have something for every style and taste in Zermatt.

Built in 1852, Mont Cervin Palace offers one-of-a-kind views of the Matterhorn. It’s the second-oldest hotel in Zermatt but is full of alpine chic touches and décor across its 150 rooms, some with kitchenettes for families. There’s also a Michelin-star Italian restaurant, a terrace bar with live music and a spa with a heated swimming pool.

For a contemporary take on mountain life, The Omnia’s serene and modern vibes in the heart of town are tough to top. Plus, it’s accessed through an elevator off Zermatt’s main thoroughfare, which feels very James Bond. The sleek 30-room lodge has floor-to-ceiling windows, a good restaurant with ample vegetarian options, and a spa with an indoor/outdoor pool and Matterhorn views.

Grand Hotel Zermatterhof has been a landmark since 1879 and has welcomed aristocrats and movies stars alike to its 69 guestrooms and suites, some of which include balconies and fireplaces. The heated pool and sauna, plus gourmet and casual restaurants, make it an easy and comfortable home base.

Relevant Links:

Browse all accommodations and activities in Switzerland on Ciao Bambino

Best places to visit in Switzerland with kids

How to choose a home base in Switzerland’s Jungfrau Region

An Alpine escape in Lauterbrunnen, Switzerland with kids

5 things to do in Luzern, Switzerland with kids

Editor’s note: This post was accurate when published. We advise checking independently for the latest information and updates. Ciao Bambino does not accept responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in, or for any actions taken based on, the information presented.