A Warm Provençal Welcome with Exquisite Style at Domaine de Manville

One tip-off that I’ve happened on a truly special hotel is that I have a hard time making myself leave the grounds, even when there’s an entire region of compelling sights and lovely landscapes waiting to be explored. Domaine de Manville in Provence is just that kind of place, a rural estate so inviting that it’s easy to lose track of time amid the sheer delight of being there. Although it sits in one of the most beautiful corners of southern France, surrounded by iconic Provençal hill towns and wild terrain ripe for wandering, we were perfectly happy to break up our local sightseeing with on-property downtime, and we looked forward to returning as the afternoons wound down.

Review and Highlights of Domaine de Manville

Overview

Domaine de Manville is tucked within Les Alpilles (or “little Alps”) in southwest Provence, a swath of protected natural parkland that’s dotted with sun-baked limestone ridges, gnarled olive trees and thickets of pine. The vine-draped main house at the heart of the hotel grounds originally anchored an early 20th-century farm; several generations later, local couple Edith and Patrick Saut, who have deep ties to the area, saw its potential as a luxe oasis within this rugged region. They transformed the main house and outbuildings into a stylish resort that honors its heritage, christening it Domaine de Manville in tribute to original owner Louis-Alexandre Blanc de Manville.

Although its 5-star elegance is unmistakable, the estate warmly welcomes families, and it’s as appropriate for a getaway with young kids as it is for a romantic retreat or a couples’ escape. It retains a strong sense of history yet never comes across as staid or formal — all ages feel equally comfortable and catered to.

Unlike many Provençal resorts that close for the winter, Domaine de Manville remains open year-round. There’s no bad time to visit, but I think early autumn is the finest season to be in this part of France, as the grapevines turn rusty and the plane trees blaze with golden foliage. Our early October stay brought warm sunny days with evenings crisp enough for a sweater — perfect weather for lingering outdoors in the large outdoor courtyard that acts as the social heart of the resort. Guests gravitate here from morning to night, settling into the cushioned lounge chairs with a book or gathering around the café tables with a glass of local rosé in hand.

What really elevates the onsite experience is the people. Hospitality is second nature at Domaine de Manville — from the bell and concierge desks to the breakfast and bar staff, everyone we encountered was kind and eager to help, no matter the request or time of day. Service feels genuine and personal, with staff members going out of their way to remember drink preferences or the way you take your morning coffee, offer insider tips and suggestions, and ensure every detail of your stay runs seamlessly. This level of care and attention is woven into the property’s DNA, and it’s another reason I found it exceptionally hard to leave.

Accommodations

With 30 rooms plus nine individual villas, Domaine de Manville feels intimate even at peak capacity. Our ground-floor Terrace Suite was expansive yet cozy, with a full sitting area and king bedroom linked by a small corridor, bookended by glass window walls that brought to life the sassy palette of charcoal, black and dusty rose. In between lay an airy bathroom with a spacious rain shower, a freestanding footed tub and two separate WCs. My favorite feature was the rear patio overlooking the courtyard, draped with a canopy of vines that allowed light to filter through yet offered just the right amount of shade and privacy.

Other accommodations range from smaller Classic Rooms and Deluxe Rooms (the latter equipped with balconies) to Manville Suites, which have skylights and private loggias, and the Prestige Suite, which evokes the air of a private apartment and includes its own rooftop deck. There’s also a duplex Family Suite with two bedrooms, one downstairs and one in an upper loft, that’s well suited for a family of four.

The villas are generously sized and a bit more contemporary in style. Depending on the category, each has three or four bedrooms, plus multiple bathrooms, an outdoor terrace, a fireplace, a dining room and a full kitchen. Although they’re centrally located on the property, you have a welcome impression of seclusion once you step inside, and there is a dedicated outdoor pool as well.

Activities and Amenities

One of the things that sets Domaine de Manville apart for families is the variety of onsite activities that truly engage children rather than just keeping them occupied. Housed in a pair of cute structures that resemble wagon cars, the kids’ club is available in summer, on weekends and during French school holidays for ages 3-12. In addition to unstructured playtime outdoors, the daily-changing schedule might include painting, crafts, games, movies or nature hunts. Kids and farm animals go hand in hand, and they’ll love meeting the resident donkeys and pony, perhaps offering them a treat or two … the sweetest!

The large, heated outdoor pool within the courtyard is great for families — you’ll feel completely at ease splashing with the kids. But parents who want a tranquil respite or a full workout can head for the spa, which holds an indoor pool in addition to a whirlpool tub, sauna, steam room and fitness equipment. The menu of treatments ranges from massages and facials to skin and body therapies — though I didn’t make time for a session, the hourlong outdoor massage amid the pine trees sounded divine. And I love that they offer treatments just for the unique needs of teenage skin as well.

Beyond the pools and spa, there are plenty of options to stay busy. Borrow electric bikes to explore the property’s private trails and venture into the surrounding Alpilles countryside, or hike through the hills on your own or with a guide. On chilly or rainy days, take a seat in the private cinema for a film screening; if it’s nice out, try your hand at a game of pétanque (while you sip pastis, of course). Part of Domaine de Manville’s 100 acres are devoted to a permaculture garden, where seasonal fruits and vegetables are cultivated to supply the hotel’s kitchens, and you can arrange a visit with a horticulturist to learn more about the process. The concierge can also book cooking classes, excursions like horseback riding, wine tastings in the estate’s cellar or private wellness sessions. There’s never an idle moment, unless you want it that way.

Golf is among Domaine de Manville’s main draws — its celebrated 18-hole course sits in the shadow of Les Baux-de-Provence, one of the area’s prettiest and most dramatic hilltop villages. If you want to fine-tune your putts and chip shots, the onsite Manville Golf Academy provides individual coaching for both adults and kids. The golf club also hosts various tournaments throughout the year; the highlight is the Manville Legends Cup, an annual October event in which professional soccer and rugby players face off against each other on the links.

At the edge of the first hole you’ll find La Cabane, a small cabin that invites relaxing over a beverage and a casual bite. The fare includes simple sandwiches, omelets, burgers and salads plus beer, wine, sodas, juices and hot drinks such as cocoa and cappuccino, accompanied by a perfect view of the ruined medieval castle perched atop Les Baux’s sheer cliffs.

Dining

Domaine de Manville offers several dining venues in addition to La Cabane, each with its own appeal. The Michelin-starred signature restaurant, L’Aupiho, is a serene cocoon of creamy hues and moody lighting, with an inventive, well-curated menu that features dishes such as pigeon with green curry, bluefin tuna with fresh basil and lentil cream, and wine-poached figs with blackcurrants and mascarpone. The wine list is equally stellar; vineyards fan out through the surrounding countryside, and you’ll find a wealth of choice bottles from the organic Les Baux-de-Provence appellation.

At the less formal Bistrot, you can feast on Provençal classics like pissaladière (flatbread with onions and anchovies), steak tartare with frites, and lamb accompanied by mushrooms and potato gratin. And breakfast, served in a soaring glass conservatory known as Le Jardin d’Hiver, starts the day on a lovely note with a lavish buffet supplemented by a small selection of egg dishes cooked to order. Be sure to dollop your baguette with a little of the honey that’s produced onsite — it’s delicious.

At golden hour, we especially loved lounging on the cushioned sofas outside the bar, fortified by nibbles like olives, breads and a beautifully presented cheese plate. Had the temptation of dinner not lured us away, we’d probably have spent all evening there sipping one of the excellent local wines and watching the stars flicker into brilliance above the courtyard.

Local Area

Among the highlights of Les Alpilles is Carrières des Lumières, an old limestone quarry-turned-digital artscape where famous paintings are animated and projected in shifting scenes along the stone surfaces, immersing visitors in color, light and sound from every angle. It’s a treat for all ages and not to be missed. The site is only 10 minutes or so from Domaine de Manville, and the concierge desk typically keeps tickets on hand; the staff will also shuttle you there and back, a nice perk as parking can fill up in a blink. Programming changes with the seasons — the featured artists during our stay were Monet and Rousseau, as well as a kid-friendly Le Petit Prince exhibit.

Saint-Rémy, one of the most charming towns in Provence, is also an easy drive from Domaine de Manville and an essential stop. This is Van Gogh country, and the self-guided Van Gogh Trail spans a mile-long path through town, with placards along the way highlighting spots central to the artist’s life and depicted in his painting. Be sure to visit the Monastery of Saint-Paul de Masole, where he spend a year recovering from the mental health crisis that led him to sever his ear, and where he created some of his most iconic works, including Irises and The Starry Night. There are no original works on display, but you can see a reconstruction of his bedroom and other spaces that lend a sense of how patients at the monastery lived in those days.

TIP: If you want a deeper dive, download a podcast or an audiobook about Van Gogh and listen to it on your way to and from Saint-Rémy — there are kid-friendly versions that will shed light on his life and works in an age-appropriate way.

Getting There and Around

The closest major airport to Domaine de Manville is Marseille Provence Airport (MRS). You can also opt for a direct TGV fast train from Paris to Arles or Avignon, which takes between 2 1/2 and 4 hours. Although the resort offers shuttle service to Les Baux and the nearby town of Maussane-les-Alpilles, you’ll want a car for exploring farther afield.

Relevant Links:

Browse all accommodations and destinations in France on Ciao Bambino

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Ciao Bambino received a media package in order to review Domaine de Manville. As always, our opinions are our own. Photos by Lisa Frederick except where noted.

Editor’s note: This post was accurate when published. We advise checking independently for the latest information and updates. Ciao Bambino does not accept responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in, or for any actions taken based on, the information presented.