72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids

Colorful Caminto street scenes in La Boca, the oldest working-class neighborhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina. Photo by Leamus/iStock.com
Colorful Caminto street scenes in La Boca, the oldest working-class neighborhood of Buenos Aires, Argentina. Photo by Leamus/iStock.com

Often called the Paris of South America, elegant and cosmopolitan Buenos Aires boasts grand buildings and boulevards, leafy parks and gardens, and plenty of cafes and gelaterias (about 60 percent of Argentinians have Italian ancestry, hence the love of cafe culture and gelato!). A third of Argentina‘s population lives here in the coastal capital city, which counts some 48 neighborhoods within its boundaries. On a trip to Buenos Aires with kids, you can take in history and culture, learn to dance the tango, catch a soccer match, visit a bustling local market and so much more.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids
The Pirámide de Mayo statue in Plaza de Mayo commemorates the country’s 19th-century May Revolution. Just beyond is Casa Rosada, seat of the Argentine president. Photo by Gustavo Papasergio on Unsplash

Buenos Aires with Kids: What to See and Do in 3 Days

Day 1

Plaza de Mayo

Much of the city’s (and country’s) history has played out in this historic square, from the beginnings of the 1810 May Revolution for independence from Spain, to Eva Perón speaking from the balcony of Casa Rosada, the presidential palace. The public square is also home to the Metropolitan Cathedral (where the late Pope Francis, then Archbishop Jorge Mario Bergoglio, previously performed mass) and the Cabildo, a former colonial town hall that’s now a museum. The impressive 22-story Palacio Barolo, architecturally inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy, is also nearby.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids
The El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop still wears the trappings of its theatrical origins

El Ateneo Grand Splendid

This gorgeous former theater, dating from 1919, was converted into a bookstore in 2000. Its stunning dome and hand-painted frescoes are quite the backdrop for the 120,000 titles that fill the shelves. Grab a coffee from the onsite café and linger for a bit to enjoy the splendid setting.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids
Recoleta Cemetery contains the graves of some of Buenos Aires’ most notable denizens. Photo by Camila Ferrari on Unsplash

Recoleta Cemetery

Take a quick walk through this eerily beautiful resting place that’s spread across 14 acres with more than 6,000 (tightly packed) graves, several of them notable for their Art Nouveau and neo-Gothic design. From military generals to a Nobel Prize winner to Eva Perón herself, many of Argentina’s most prominent figures lie in peace here. If you’d rather skip the cemetery, consider the Museo Evita, which can be covered in under two hours and is quite compelling, highlighting in particular Perón’s efforts to advance women’s rights.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids
Every dish on the tasting menu at Aramburu is beautifully plated

Aramburu

Cap the day with the fantastically inventive 18-course tasting menu at Gonzalo Aramburu’s eponymous restaurant, part of Relais & Chateaux and recently awarded two Michelin stars. Seasonal dishes such as shiso leaf tacos with plum puree and crunchy potato noodles on top, and fennel with pistachio and pea tendrils, are thoughtful and creative, engaging all the senses and celebrating Argentina’s diverse terrain and terroir. The expert wine pairing is exquisite.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids
Jardin Japones has a tranquil Zen vibe that makes a welcome respite from the city’s hubbub. Photo courtesy of the Buenos Aires City Tourism Board

Day 2

Garden Break

Get some fresh air at Jardin Japones, the largest Japanese-style garden outside Japan. Originally built in 1967 for a visit from Emperor Akihito of Japan and his wife Michiko, the tranquil garden is dotted with bonsai trees, azaleas, cherry blossoms, stone lanterns and bridges over koi-filled ponds. Alternatively, if you’re visiting during the fall months (spring in South America), make your way to the stunning rose blooms and jacarandas of El Rosedal garden within the Parque Tres de Febrero.

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MALBA Museum (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires)

Not too far from Jardin Japones, this ambitious museum is dedicated to Latin American art from the 20th century to the present. Born from the private collection of real estate tycoon and art lover Eduardo Costanini, it showcases more than 400 works by 20th-century Latin American artists, among them Antonio Berni, Frida Kahlo, Maria Martins, Emilio Pettoruti, Hélio Oiticica and others.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids
Eye-popping street art in Palermo. Photo by Mauricio Guardiano on Unsplash

Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood

Spend the afternoon and evening soaking in the atmosphere of the hip Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood neighborhoods, where coffee shops, bakeries, galleries, boutiques and bars line the streets. Pop into Cuervo for a cappuccino or Daniel Bakery for buttery croissants. Shop fabulous shoes and clothes at Mishka, Maria Cher and Jazmin Chebar, all along El Salvador Street. Come dinner, snag a table at El Preferido, known for its charcuterie, or Gran Dabbang, which harmoniously marries Argentine and South Asian flavors.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids
Fresh produce stalls are just one small facet of Mercado San Telmo. Photo courtesy of the Buenos Aires City Tourism Board

Day 3

San Telmo Market

Open Tuesday through Sunday, this lively, historic indoor market, occupying an entire city block, is bursting at the seams with antiques and crafts as well as fresh produce and fruits galore. Dozens of food stalls also sell piping-hot empanadas and choripan sandwiches (made with grilled chorizo). Sundays are especially busy with an outdoor street fair taking over lanes near the market.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids
Vivid Caminito street scenes in La Boca, the oldest working-class neighborhood of Buenos Aires. Photo by Leamus/iStock.com

La Boca

Just south of the San Telmo barrio, La Boca is a colorful, artsy neighborhood with immigrant roots. Wander along Caminito, a pedestrian street known for its brightly painted houses. The area is considered the birthplace of tango and dancers can be seen performing for onlookers.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids
If the schedule lines up with your travel dates, get swept up in the excitement of a soccer match at La Bombanera. Photo courtesy of the Buenos Aires City Tourism Board

Fútbol Fever

It would be remiss to come all the way to Buenos Aires and not see a fútbol (soccer) match; the sport is practically a religion in Argentina. Fans of Maradona and Messi will want to join the contagious energy of the crowd at a local game, which are held at one of five major soccer stadiums across the city, including La Bombonera, home of the Boca Juniors. Tickets to matches are not quite as easy and seamless to buy as you might hope — most are sold through agents — so it’s best to find a reputed partner or ask your hotel’s concierge team for help.

TIP: Ciao Bambino Travel Advisors can arrange sports packages and more as part of CB’s full vacation planning service. For more details, get in touch.

72 Hours in Buenos Aires with Kids
A gaucho performs at La Bamba de Areco

Estancia Day Trips

Last but not least, consider a day trip to the pampas, or grasslands, about an hour’s drive outside the city. Enjoy lunch and a gaucho show at a colonial-era estancia such as the stunning, tree-studded La Bamba de Areco — as skilled horseback riders and cattle herders, gauchos were a vital part of Argentina’s history and culture.

Relevant Links: 

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Photos by Tanvi Chheda except where noted.

Editor’s note: This post was accurate when published. We advise checking independently for the latest information and updates. Ciao Bambino does not accept responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in, or for any actions taken based on, the information presented. 

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