Often called the Paris of South America, elegant and cosmopolitan Buenos Aires boasts grand buildings and boulevards, leafy parks and gardens, and plenty of cafes and gelaterias (about 60 percent of Argentinians have Italian ancestry, hence the love of cafe culture and gelato!). A third of Argentina‘s population lives here in the coastal capital city, which counts some 48 neighborhoods within its boundaries. On a trip to Buenos Aires with kids, you can take in history and culture, learn to dance the tango, catch a soccer match, visit a bustling local market and so much more.
Much of the city’s (and country’s) history has played out in this historic square, from the beginnings of the 1810 May Revolution for independence from Spain, to Eva Perón speaking from the balcony of Casa Rosada, the presidential palace. The public square is also home to the Metropolitan Cathedral (where the late Pope Francis, then Archbishop Jorge Mario Bergoglio, previously performed mass) and the Cabildo, a former colonial town hall that’s now a museum. The impressive 22-story Palacio Barolo, architecturally inspired by Dante’s Divine Comedy, is also nearby.
This gorgeous former theater, dating from 1919, was converted into a bookstore in 2000. Its stunning dome and hand-painted frescoes are quite the backdrop for the 120,000 titles that fill the shelves. Grab a coffee from the onsite café and linger for a bit to enjoy the splendid setting.
Take a quick walk through this eerily beautiful resting place that’s spread across 14 acres with more than 6,000 (tightly packed) graves, several of them notable for their Art Nouveau and neo-Gothic design. From military generals to a Nobel Prize winner to Eva Perón herself, many of Argentina’s most prominent figures lie in peace here. If you’d rather skip the cemetery, consider the Museo Evita, which can be covered in under two hours and is quite compelling, highlighting in particular Perón’s efforts to advance women’s rights.
Cap the day with the fantastically inventive 18-course tasting menu at Gonzalo Aramburu’s eponymous restaurant, part of Relais & Chateaux and recently awarded two Michelin stars. Seasonal dishes such as shiso leaf tacos with plum puree and crunchy potato noodles on top, and fennel with pistachio and pea tendrils, are thoughtful and creative, engaging all the senses and celebrating Argentina’s diverse terrain and terroir. The expert wine pairing is exquisite.
Get some fresh air at Jardin Japones, the largest Japanese-style garden outside Japan. Originally built in 1967 for a visit from Emperor Akihito of Japan and his wife Michiko, the tranquil garden is dotted with bonsai trees, azaleas, cherry blossoms, stone lanterns and bridges over koi-filled ponds. Alternatively, if you’re visiting during the fall months (spring in South America), make your way to the stunning rose blooms and jacarandas of El Rosedal garden within the Parque Tres de Febrero.
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Not too far from Jardin Japones, this ambitious museum is dedicated to Latin American art from the 20th century to the present. Born from the private collection of real estate tycoon and art lover Eduardo Costanini, it showcases more than 400 works by 20th-century Latin American artists, among them Antonio Berni, Frida Kahlo, Maria Martins, Emilio Pettoruti, Hélio Oiticica and others.
Spend the afternoon and evening soaking in the atmosphere of the hip Palermo Soho and Palermo Hollywood neighborhoods, where coffee shops, bakeries, galleries, boutiques and bars line the streets. Pop into Cuervo for a cappuccino or Daniel Bakery for buttery croissants. Shop fabulous shoes and clothes at Mishka, Maria Cher and Jazmin Chebar, all along El Salvador Street. Come dinner, snag a table at El Preferido, known for its charcuterie, or Gran Dabbang, which harmoniously marries Argentine and South Asian flavors.
Open Tuesday through Sunday, this lively, historic indoor market, occupying an entire city block, is bursting at the seams with antiques and crafts as well as fresh produce and fruits galore. Dozens of food stalls also sell piping-hot empanadas and choripan sandwiches (made with grilled chorizo). Sundays are especially busy with an outdoor street fair taking over lanes near the market.
Just south of the San Telmo barrio, La Boca is a colorful, artsy neighborhood with immigrant roots. Wander along Caminito, a pedestrian street known for its brightly painted houses. The area is considered the birthplace of tango and dancers can be seen performing for onlookers.
It would be remiss to come all the way to Buenos Aires and not see a fútbol (soccer) match; the sport is practically a religion in Argentina. Fans of Maradona and Messi will want to join the contagious energy of the crowd at a local game, which are held at one of five major soccer stadiums across the city, including La Bombonera, home of the Boca Juniors. Tickets to matches are not quite as easy and seamless to buy as you might hope — most are sold through agents — so it’s best to find a reputed partner or ask your hotel’s concierge team for help.
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Last but not least, consider a day trip to the pampas, or grasslands, about an hour’s drive outside the city. Enjoy lunch and a gaucho show at a colonial-era estancia such as the stunning, tree-studded La Bamba de Areco — as skilled horseback riders and cattle herders, gauchos were a vital part of Argentina’s history and culture.
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Photos by Tanvi Chheda except where noted.
Editor’s note: This post was accurate when published. We advise checking independently for the latest information and updates. Ciao Bambino does not accept responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in, or for any actions taken based on, the information presented.
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