More often than not, when families think of traveling to Spain, they think of the Mediterranean and the idyllic Balearic Islands, or the stunning, sunshine-filled cities of Barcelona and Valencia. Or perhaps they think about descending upon the vibrant and cosmopolitan capital of Madrid, or historic Seville and its flamenco dancers.
It’s too bad that more don’t consider northern Spain — for those interested in delving deeper into the Iberian Peninsula and uncovering its charm without the (millions of) people cramming the major cities and southern shores, this underrated region is a blessing. For it is here, along the beautiful northern coast, that San Sebastián awaits.
Situated near the border of France along the Bay of Biscay, San Sebastián — or Donostia, as it is called by locals — resides in Basque Country, rich in unique language, cultural traditions, stunning landscapes, ancient heritage and distinctive architecture. The city enchants visitors with its stunning crescent-shaped La Concha Beach, world-renowned culinary scene boasting numerous Michelin-starred restaurants, and vibrant cultural life.
San Sebastián seamlessly blends traditional Basque charm with modern sophistication, evident in its historic old town, lively pintxos bars (analogous to the tapas bars elsewhere in Spain), and cutting-edge institutions like the San Telmo Museum. It also offers breathtaking natural beauty, from its scenic coastline to the panoramic views atop Monte Igueldo, making it a must-visit destination for any family seeking an enriching experience all around.
You cannot talk about San Sebastián without talking about its culinary scene. This is a destination for foodie families and adventurous eaters. The buzz began in 1974, when Chef Juan Mari Arzak, a pioneer in modern Basque cuisine, earned the city’s first Michelin star at his eponymous restaurant. Ultimately, he and his daughter, Elena, went on to earn – and maintain – three stars, thanks to dishes like pigeon with corn and foie gras and red mullet with edible sugar-crystallized scales.
Michelin returned again and again, uncovering more delicious dishes and celebrated chefs, including Pedro Subijana of Akelarre; Martin Bersategui of Martin Bersategui Restaurant; and Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz. Today, it is the second-most Michelin-decorated city in the world. Even Anthony Bourdain took his No Reservations crew to San Sebastián to shine a spotlight on the city as a top gastronomic destination.
While parents with young kids may want to hire a sitter so they can enjoy the food scene to the fullest, some of the restaurants are accommodating to children — including Kokotxa, which has one star, and even Arzak, which can provide simpler dishes for kids if requested in advance.
Although you could spend a week in San Sebastián, 72 hours will also suffice — and perhaps save you from busting out of the clothes you’ve packed.
Day 1
Start your trip with a visit to La Concha Beach and let the kids play in the sand, swim in the calm waters or rent paddleboards. You can take a walk along the promenade to enjoy the scenery, and when you’re hungry for lunch, La Perla Taverna Restaurant is located right on the beach with fantastic views and a kid-friendly menu.
After lunch, head west past Ondarreta Beach to take the funicular railway up to Monte Igueldo. This vintage amusement park offers rides the kids will love, like carousels and mini rollercoasters, with stunning vistas of the city and the bay.
In the evening, stroll through San Sebastián’s Old Town, or Parte Vieja, at the foot of Mount Urgull adjacent to La Concha Bay. Known for its narrow cobblestone streets, the neighborhood is filled with beautifully preserved buildings, pintxos bars and shops.
Day 2
On your second day in the city, visit its indoor attractions. Spend the morning at the San Telmo Museum in Parte Vieja. Dedicated to showcasing the art and history of the Basque Country, the museum is housed in a former convent that dates back to the 16th century. Or pop into Eureka!, San Sebastián’s interactive science museum, offering hands-on exhibits and a planetarium that will keep younger kids entertained.
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Take a break for snacks or have a picnic lunch at Mount Urgull, which offers panoramic views. A former military site, the hill is dotted with fortifications, including Mota Castle, which dates back to the 12th century. At the summit stands Sagrado Corazón, or the Statue of the Sacred Heart, one of the city’s most prominent landmarks. The park is crisscrossed with walking trails to give your family an escape from the bustling city.
Following an afternoon on the hill, head to San Sebastián Aquarium at the bottom — its 360-degree tunnel will make kids feel like they are under the sea as they watch the marine life. Check out the stingrays and colorful fish before making your way to the Gros neighborhood bordering Hondartza Beach. This beach teems with surfers year-round and the neighborhood is a dynamic boho spot filled with colorful street art, murals and graffiti. Gros frequently hosts outdoor concerts, festivals, markets and cultural events to enjoy as well. And if your kids want to tackle the notoriously big waves at Hondartza, the beach is filled with surf schools you can return to during the day.
Day Three
Begin your final day with a stop at the 19th-century Miramar Palace near La Concha, the former residence of the Spanish royal family, which served as the summer home of Queen Maria Christina. Surrounded by beautifully maintained gardens, it’s a peaceful retreat with bay views.
When hunger takes over and you’re ready for lunch, visit La Bretxa Market, filled with fresh foods and ready-to-eat pintxos. Housed in an 1871 building, its heart is an indoor market filled with stalls selling meats, seafood, cheeses and fresh produce. Outdoor market stalls that surround the main building sell flowers and artisanal goods.
As your day comes to an end, plan to enjoy the sunset at the western end of La Concha Bay. Here, you’ll spot a set of three steel sculptures at the base of Monte Igueldo, created by the Basque sculptor Eduardo Chillida and known as El Peine del Viento, or Wind Comb.
Hotel Maria Cristina
If it’s luxury you seek, your family will feel like royalty when staying at the Hotel Maria Cristina, a Marriott Bonvoy Luxury Collection property. The iconic hotel is situated on the Urumea River, a short walk between Parte Vieja and La Concha. The hotel features Family Rooms for up to four guests, as well as multi-bedroom suites offering two- to four-bedroom options with living rooms, as well as connecting suites.
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Niza Hotela
If you want to stay close to La Concha beach, you can’t beat the prime location of Niza Hotela. Situated directly across from the sand, the comfortable and contemporary property offers triple rooms to accommodate families and also provides free bicycles for exploring the area.
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Editor’s note: This post was accurate when published. We advise checking independently for the latest information and updates. Ciao Bambino does not accept responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in, or for any actions taken based on, the information presented.
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