A Family Escape to the Dordogne Region of France

If you’re looking for a less familiar area to explore in France beyond the big-name destinations like Paris, Provence and the French Riviera, the Dordogne region is a blast for kids of all ages.

One of the reasons I like it so much for families is that the list of things to do in the Dordogne is so varied within a small geographic area. Cultural and historic touring can easily be combined with active days out biking, hiking, swimming and canoeing.

All this to do and the Dordogne is not overrun with tourists? That’s a travel win for sure! Best of all, peak holiday months like July are busy, but not in a “never again” sort of way.

Our Favorite Things to Do in the Dordogne Region of France

Dordogne Markets

Meandering through markets in France is one of life’s great pleasures and a perfect way to get a glimpse of local life in action. There are wonderful markets to explore in the region every day of the week, including Sundays. Here’s a link to a schedule of market days in the Dordogne.

With small kids this is a no-brainer as all the treats and trinkets can easily entertain them. Honestly, the 10-year-old boy in our group wrote in his diary that our market visit was SO boring. So be it — markets aren’t for everyone, no matter how old. The next day was spent at the zipline adventure park, Parc-en-Ciel, and any conviction in his mind that the Dordogne region isn’t fun for kids disappeared instantly.

Prehistoric Caves

The area around the Dordogne is full of prehistoric caves, some with paintings and others with interesting rock formations. While they are relatively close to each other and easy to find, it is important to note that purchasing tickets in advance can be challenging and not all caves take reservations. Our CB Travel Advisors can help with ticketing, guides and other logistics as part of our vacation planning service.

Lascaux IV

Lascaux is the most famous prehistoric cave. In order to preserve it, an exact replica, Lascaux IV, was built next to it. This tour is a great place to start for first-timers and kids. There are many tours in English, the tour is very educational and because it’s a replica, the animal paintings, mainly horses and bulls, are very easy to see.

Font-de-Gaume

Font-de-Gaume is widely considered to have the best cave art in the area, and is the most difficult ticket to obtain since they only allow 180 visitors per day (12 people per tour). There are only a couple of tours in English. This feels like a cave — it’s cool inside with narrow areas — but it’s an intimate and personalized experience.

The guides are very knowledgeable and the main paintings here are of bison. The tour is 45 to 50 minutes and kids need a good attention span here, as the groups are small and talking is disruptive.

Rouffignac

After seeing the two most famous caves in the area, we went to one of the most popular ones, Rouffignac. This was our kids’ favorite because visitors ride on an electric train to view the famous mammoths. Tours are only in French and same-day tickets can be bought onsite, but are subject to availability.

Castle Visits

There are more than 1,000 castles in the Dordogne. Not all are open for visitors, but there are plenty to explore. We visited Château de Beynac — one of my favorite castles in all of Europe. Château de Castelnaud is also fantastic with a large collection of medieval ammunition on display. If you are traveling with boys, this is a crowd-pleaser.

You don’t need to go into all the castles to appreciate them. The exterior is always a big part of the magic. Personally, I think a boat ride down the Dordogne River is the perfect way to view many of the castles all in one go.

Canoeing or Kayaking on the Dordogne River

There may not be a more magical river to canoe or kayak than the Dordogne River. Every bend reveals a castle or an astonishing medieval city built into the cliffs. There are many canoeing and kayaking companies to choose from and we went with Roquegeoffre, which was recommended by our hotel. The employees were great — efficient and organized, and there is an ice cream store at the end!

Since we were traveling with a 5-year-old and an 8-year-old, we chose the shorter “highlights” course, comprised of a minimum of two and half hours of kayaking without stops.  Our total time with the kayaks was just over four hours, including a stop in La Roque-Gageac for lunch. With younger children I would recommend packing a lunch and stopping at one of the little beaches along the way instead of going to a restaurant — four hours is too long for little ones. Another option if you want to see the sights without the kayaking is an hourlong ride on a gabarre boat.

Les Jardins de Marqueyssac

Garden visits are fun for every age, particularly versions with mazes and trails for kids to romp around. We spent an afternoon at Les Jardins de Marqueyssac and loved it. Garden touring is effortless and relaxing; this is a perfect destination for all ages.

Bike Riding 

When people tell me they are going to bike Italy’s rural roads with kids I always have an eyebrow up, as the roads are narrow with blind corners — this combination only seems to make the Italians drive faster.

In the Dordogne, however, many of the back roads are very quiet with gentle hills and are glorious for bike riding. We had bikes delivered to our farmhouse for the week and cycled around as a break from sightseeing. Hotels or villa agencies can also organize bike rentals for you

Summer Festivals

Summer festivals are plentiful. We were lucky enough to catch Beaumont du Perigord decked out for their celebration. Some villages have evening cookouts of sorts where the community gets together outside for dinner. We joined one for an evening and within no time, our kids were playing tag with kids from all over the world while we sipped wine.

Where to Stay in the Dordogne

Our favorite part of the Dordogne for families is that it’s so easy to go local and not feel surrounded by tourists all the time. Kids don’t get quite as excited by quaint villages as we do, but if you loiter in a place for long enough, they settle in and discover the fun and freedom of village life in the French countryside.

We rented a villa outside the idyllic village of Tremolat and loved this area as a home-base for exploring the region. It’s a bit off the central tourist corridor, but the main Dordogne attractions are still accessible from here. Villa rentals in the Dordogne are popular, although, I recommend rentals for multiple families traveling together, not independent families. Our Travel Advisors can help you source the right villa from our vetted list of rental agencies.

For single families, I prefer hotel stays where other kids are likely to be present. We have loved our stays at Le Chevrefeuille, a farmhouse-style accommodation with a perfect setup for kids. I also scouted Château Les Merles, a stylish boutique hotel with an apartment that works well for families. If you want an upscale hotel with full services, this is one to check out.

Dining in the Dordogne

The Dordogne region is filled with gastronomic gems that cater to sophisticated palates and those looking for the traditional cuisine of the region. From Michelin-star restaurants to those that have been passed down through the generations, you are sure to find something you and your children will love when you visit.

Regardless of your cravings, be sure and visit Les Truffières in Tremolat, a working farm with a restaurant. This is one of our most memorable meals in all of France. We returned back for five nights, we loved it so much! Your kids will enjoy the animals and garden; you will enjoy the food, the host and the price point.

Photos by Katja Gaskell, Globetotting.com.

Editor’s note: This post was accurate when published. We advise checking independently for the latest information and updates. Ciao Bambino does not accept responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in, or for any actions taken based on, the information presented. 

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Editor’s note: This post was accurate when published. We advise checking independently for the latest information and updates. Ciao Bambino does not accept responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in, or for any actions taken based on, the information presented.