This is a guest post from Denise Ostuni, who lives with her family in Puglia, Italy. Many thanks to Denise for providing this wonderful introduction!
Let time stand still and enjoy an unforgettable family vacation in Puglia, Italy, one filled with good surprises, great sites, friendly people, good food and wine, and incredible beaches. Once you’ve discovered Puglia, it’s difficult NOT to plan your return.
Puglia is a region in southern Italy often overlooked by first-time travelers to the country — especially ones with children. It is a place where ancient and deeply rooted traditions have been passed down for generations, dictating the rhythm of life. Time stands still for those who immerse themselves in its beauty.
We have been lucky to have Italy’s heel of the boot, Puglia, right in our backyard ever since we moved here in 2009. My husband, Angelo, decided to move back to Italy after living in the U.S. for 16 years. We met in New York City in 1999, got married in 2003 and had two children, Isabella and Carlo. We moved to Milan in 2009, and now we reside in the seaside town of Monopoli in the region of Puglia.
Oftentimes I’m asked the question “Why did you leave one of the greatest cities in the world, New York, for Puglia?” My response is simple: “Why not?”
Coming from a metropolis, you appreciate enchanting locations such as Puglia even more. Who wouldn’t jump at the opportunity to experience a part of Italy so invigorating and still undiscovered?
There are numerous possibilities if you want to customize your Puglia itinerary, whether you are looking for a small-town escape, a southern Italy road trip, or just to experience the beautiful beaches of the east coast. If you only have a few days to discover Puglia with your children, here are some highlights not to miss.
Alberobello has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996 and is one of the best places to find the majority of the famous Trulli houses (recognizable by their rectangular forms with conical corbelled roofs), clustered together from the 17th century. They are limestone dwellings that were constructed using prehistoric techniques (mortarless), with some still having mythological symbols painted on their roofs. My kids often describe them as upside-down cone-shaped houses.
Speaking of cone shapes, there is a wonderful gelateria to be visited during your exploration of the city: Arte Fredda, featuring unusual flavors and the freshest ingredients (try date-flavored gelato)!
Children of all ages will have a wonderful time creating their own fairytales and stories about the trulli as they work their way around the town. Nearby there is a masseria (fortified farmhouse with a high-walled courtyard) built in the 16th century, which offers cheese-making lessons as well as tastings.
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Cisternino is another characteristic Puglian medieval town, and a great day trip if you are looking to village-hop in the region. You can visit the historic center, walk around the squares, take in the views of the Itria Valley and have a wonderful lunch. Cisternino is known for the fornello, a butcher shop with a restaurant next door. You can select your own meat; it is cooked to your liking and served to you at the restaurant.
Two kid-friendly restaurants we recommend if you want to experience fornello are Macelleria Demola Vincenzo and Arrosteria del Vicoletto, but most restaurants in this area of the country welcome families with open arms. If you are looking for a local specialty, bombetta is a stuffed rolled meat that is typical of the area.
Ostuni is known as the “white city,” with its whitewashed walls and incredible architecture featured in the upper part of town. It is a lively fortified medieval town on a hillside with breath-taking views of the Adriatic Sea.
It is a great place during the day but even more extraordinary at night. Just wander around the town, stop at a café by the hilltop Romanesque Duomo and soak in the impeccable scenery. Nearby you can also visit one of the masserias offering olive oil harvesting and tasting.
We love to go to one of the best beaches around Ostuni: Cala dei Ginepri, near the beautiful natural reserve of Torre Guaceto. In the peak of the summer months (high season), it was surprisingly quiet, clear and clean. Plan ahead and you can pack a really good picnic. If you forgot, the beach has a snack bar on the premises, featuring a lunch menu of mainly sandwiches, hot dogs and salads.
TIP: It’s best to buy a beach umbrella and bring it along, so you can spend all day on the sandy beaches soaking up the sun while still getting a little shade.
If you don’t want to spend all day in the water, you can head to the nearby Nature Reserve. They have a visitor center where you can schedule guided tours, nature walks, cycling, trekking and snorkeling trips.
On your way back north to Monopoli, stop at La Marea (+39 080 482 9415) for dinner. It is a fantastic place to try the local seafood, and depending on the season, you can get fresh sea urchins, oysters, octopus and codfish, to name a few. Keep in mind that this is an upscale-family run restaurant, so shirts and shoes are required (trousers too).
The beautiful and talented wife/chef of La Marea comes from generations of chefs. Her charming husband is a great host and will make sure your children sample the local flavors. The appetizers and specials of the day are always incredible.
Monopoli and Polignano a Mare are both seaside towns near Bari. Monopoli has a historic center right by the town square. The kids will love to watch the fishermen repair their nets at the harbor, see the cannons along the walls of the ancient castle, and play on the playground before splashing in the nearby family-friendly beaches — many just a short walk from town.
Polignano a Mare’s historic center is perched on top of limestone cliffs with breathtaking views. Check out the local sites and caves by water that can be reached when you rent a boat (see HelloApulia below).
Aside from the spectacular towns Puglia has to offer, it also has other main attractions that kids will love.
If you want to be pampered, there is no better place to book then Borgo Egnazia, a luxury hotel, part of San Domenico Hotels and the Leading Hotels of the World. Hotel rooms and villas with pools are available, which are perfect for families. I’ve had the opportunity to speak to the owners and their two lovely daughters as they gave us a tour of the kids’ club and the teen club. It was an incredible sight to see.
Children of guests have a private club with impeccable services catering to children from 8 months to teens. The space has an indoor and outdoor area with a well- designed playground, a performance area, a zero-entry pool perfect for the little ones, a hands-on children’s garden area and a restaurant. The staff is certified and well trained.
Kids can also enjoy golf, tennis, swimming and cooking lessons, plus there is a wonderful babysitting service should parents want a romantic night out.
The region is served by two major airports, Bari (BRI) and Brindisi (BDS), and by the Italian railway system connecting it to the rest of Italy and Europe. Once you get here, I would recommend renting a car if you have children.
You can also book a car hire service with a driver if you aren’t comfortable driving. He or she can get you to most places at reasonable price.
I have scratched the surface of the region of Puglia, but there are places deeper south, such as Lecce and Otranto, Altamura in the west, and as far north as the Gargano Peninsula, that would take days to describe. It’s a part of Italy waiting to be explored not just by adults, but by children as well.
Relevant Links:
Browse all accommodations and activities in Italy with kids
52 things to know before traveling to Italy with kids
10 tips for traveling to Italy with kids
1 to 2 weeks in Italy: The best itinerary for families
Off-the-beaten-path Italy: New places to explore with kids
Editor’s note: This post was accurate when published. We advise checking independently for the latest information and updates. Ciao Bambino does not accept responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in, or for any actions taken based on, the information presented.
Written By
By Amie O’Shaughnessy
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Hello Denise,
Great article about Puglia. It brought me back in time. I was born in Gioia del Colle, provincia di Bari. Now, I live just outside San Francisco, California with my wife and two beautiful kids, Isabella(9) & Gianluca(6). We are coming to Puglia anxiously on June 18. We are coming to Italy for 6-weeks vacation. It has been 15 years away from Puglia. This will be my wife’s second trip and our kids first trip. We plan on being in Puglia for a least 4-weeks out of the 6. We can hardly wait!
A presto Puglia!
Domenico
Denise & Amie,
It was a treat to find your article on Puglia. I lived in Puglia in 1980-81 based in San Vito with the US Air Force. The old cold war listening post is gone now. I used to be on the road from San Vito to Brindisi with a round mile diameter 6 story tall antenna.
The gem of Puglia was our little secret in Air Force Security Service. The food, sun, wine, people, everything pulled us into their world. Slow down, don’t worry, live simply.
My first summer I shared a cottage in Ostuni, and my second year share a villa in Carovigno. Villa Flora, was just a half mile or so south of town surrounded by an orchard. My half of the rent was $80/mo. The landlord lived in a ‘garage’ of sorts at the back. They, Maria and (don) Peppino, would have us in for the afternoon meal if we wern’t working. The meal would start around 1 or 2 pm and go on up to 3 or more hours.
Similarly, in our favorite Ostuni restaurants, the meal could be 4, 5 6 courses of simple but robust flavors, fabulous wine, and this could go on for hours. Back then we’d wrap up one of these wonderful meals for around $10 each.
If you’re extending your stay, try to discover the wine co-op. Back then a litre of wine was $0.60 in San Vito and $0.80/litre for the ‘good stuff’ in Ostuni. A deposit must be paid on a jug (5 litre, 10, 15, and larger). The jug is filled from a storage tank of ‘house’ wine from a hose that looks something like a petrol station. There was an oversized ‘jug’ on a stand that must have been 25 or 50 litre, and we’d see locals taking these home on the back of their little three wheeled trucks (if you can call it a truck, looks a little more like a cross between a go cart and John Deer).
The small coves along the Adriatic can make for a quiet day at the beach. The coast near Ostuni has a long string of small secluded coves that can be your little private escape for the day (or night). Snorkelling out around the rocky points can be a ral joy too. Watch out for the jellyfish in late Aug or early Sep – they invade like some sort of Hitchcock swarm.
There is so much more to discover; Bari, Tarranto, Lecce – it could take years, and should be given time to soak in – a quick tour through Apuglia would be a terribble shame. A visit to Apuglia shouldn’t be rushed, it should be slowly absorbed.
Abbondanza,
David
Hi Denise. Your Mom and I and Tita Vicky are all friends from the UN as well as BLD. While I have been to a few cities in Italy, Puglia isn’t one of them so this has proven sooo helpful. When we visit Rome next year, we will certainly add Puglia to our itinerary. Your article is very enticing and I can hardly wait.
Thank you and I hope to meet you when we visit.
Hi Denise. I am your Mommy’s friend way back from Manila during our working days in Citicorp, Manila.
My friend and I are planning to go to Vatican City. How far will Puglia be from Vatican City?
My best regards to your wonderful family. Say hi to Mommy Tita and your Dad.
Lina A Ingles
Looks the place is beautiful…someday I may visit these place.
Loved and enjoyed our stay in Italy a few years back .Thx for your infos about Puglia .We’ ll visit Puglia on our next visit to Italy.
I would to visit Puglia in my next visit to Italy.
I was in Rome last Holy Week.
Thank you for the information.