Belle Époque Charm on Brittany’s Emerald Coast at Le Grand Hôtel Dinard

The little town of Dinard, France, has long traded on its allure as the “Brighton of Brittany.” Just like its cousin across the English Channel, it’s a famed seaside resort where European aristocracy once flocked in summer for a dose of bracing sea air and idle leisure. At the heart of it all sits Le Grand Hôtel Dinard, where august guests from Pablo Picasso to Hugh Grant and Winston Churchill to Victor Hugo have lain their heads over the decades — some of them seeking inspiration, others escape, and most a little of both.

These days, the hotel is having something of a moment. A thoughtful renovation has brought back its original elegance while giving it a contemporary polish. But it wears its rarefied history lightly, and families are just as welcome as the luminaries who arrived before them. Come summer and school breaks, it becomes an all-ages playground that proves vintage glamour and small sandy feet can coexist in harmony.

Review and Highlights of Le Grand Hôtel Dinard

Presiding over the blue-green waves that give this part of Brittany its Emerald Coast nickname, Le Grand Hôtel Dinard has been the jewel of its namesake town since it was built in the 1850s. Although it opened just ahead of the period known as the Belle Époque, the property embodied the same sense of optimism and laissez-faire spirit that would come to define the era. It was Dinard’s very first true hotel, meant to welcome royalty in style (which, at the time, took the form of a modest 20-room structure just steps from the sea for bathing).

Today, as part of the prestigious Groupe Barrière collection, its historic grandeur sports a sheen of modern élan. What hasn’t changed is the commitment to attentive service and care: From the time I checked in, the reception and bell teams set a welcoming, solicitous tone that echoed throughout the rest of my stay. Nineteenth century or 21st, the art of hospitality never goes out of style.

Le Grand Hôtel’s magnificent stone façade perches high above a small bay, and architect Alexandre Danan, who orchestrated the renovation, brought in a wash of maritime color to mirror the water beyond the windows. His design preserved the property’s soul while giving it a fresh, bright face — common areas showcase restored original plasterwork and rich, dark woods that evoke the romance of vintage ocean liners, paired with smart, sculptural furnishings that create inviting spots to settle in with a book, a cup of coffee or a snifter of local apple brandy from the bar.

The ambiance feels relaxed and inclusive; at any given moment, you might spot a family playing card games in the lounge or kids running through the garden, and no one bats an eye. As I descended the main stairwell one afternoon, I saw a tween girl practicing at a nearby piano while her family and other guests lounged on comfortable seating and listened with appreciation, which speaks volumes about the hotel’s warm and unpretentious spirit.

Accommodations

Spread over four floors, the 86 rooms and suites represent a streamlined take on traditional style, each done in a palette of sapphire blues or rich persimmons softened by tone-on-tone creams and beiges. Layered textures, plush textiles and dark wood accents lend warmth yet still feel of the moment. The categories start at Superior Rooms (which can be connected) and Deluxe Rooms with views of the town or the hotel garden; Prestige Sea Rooms include sofa beds and can also connect to a neighboring space. Suite categories include Junior Suites and one-bedroom Prestige Sea Suites, which have a separate lounge area plus multiple balconies that usher in the salt air and sunlight.

In-room amenities include plush robes and slippers, Guerlain toiletries, Nespresso coffee machines and well-stocked minibars, but for me, the best amenity is the view. It is absolutely worth booking accommodations that overlook the water, both for the beautiful scenery and the sense of place. My Deluxe Sea Room had a small balcony from which I enjoyed watching the boats bob in the harbor at high tide (they lie beached and tilted on the slick sands at low tide, an equally interesting sight). Another benefit: A quirk of local weather conditions means this area is unusually prone to rainbows, and I saw no less than four during my short stay.

Le Grand Hôtel sits across a fairly busy two-lane road from the bay, and the tradeoff for the vistas is a certain amount of car traffic below. However, the hotel has done an impressive job soundproofing the windows and French doors throughout. I never heard even the slightest hint of road noise, day or night.

Dining

The main restaurant at Le Grand Hôtel is Le George V, a stately, high-ceilinged space with handsome leather banquettes and graceful tiebacks that frame the windows overlooking the bay. The daily breakfast spread served here is so lavish that it’s a challenge to sample it all, though you’ll enjoy trying. Regional classics like far Breton (a silky custard tart studded with prunes) and kouign-amann (an outrageously buttery caramelized pastry) keep company with all manner of morning breads, sweet tidbits, cured meats, sausages, cheeses, smoked salmon, blini, scrambled and soft-boiled eggs, freshly squeezed juices, and on and on. Dinner is a little more formal — the three-course menu includes a starter, main and dessert, and the choices for each are rooted firmly in Brittany’s culinary traditions, such as oysters sourced nearby and foie gras with mead crafted from local honey. The dishes are delicious without being overwrought, their simple preparation allowing the top-quality ingredients to take center stage.

The hotel’s iconic 333 Café, open from 11 am to midnight, serves small plates as well as a British-style afternoon tea. The venue takes its name from a cocktail that Kirk Douglas, who stayed onsite during the 1957 filming of The Vikings with costar Tony Curtis, is said to have dreamed up with the bartender — a potent mix of Cointreau, gin, orange juice and Champagne that remains a house specialty. With its sea-facing windows and cheery blue-striped wallpaper, it’s a pleasure to linger here over a drink, accompanied by the gentle tinkle of live piano music.

Activities and Amenities

Relaxation and pampering have been central to Le Grand Hôtel since its earliest years, and the Shiseido Ginza Tokyo Spa carries the torch in lovely style. As you might expect from a Japanese beauty brand, treatments take a holistic approach, incorporating a spectrum of traditional Asian techniques and natural ingredients. While I didn’t have time to fit in a spa session, I was tempted by the heated bamboo massage, in which warm bamboo sticks are stroked along tight muscles, and a facial that draws on Japanese enmei, plants believed to combat aging. Guests also have access to a heated indoor pool with massage jets, a sauna and hammam, and a fully equipped fitness center.

Beyond the grounds, you can set out to cycle the coastal paths or amble along the Promenade du Clair de Lune, which winds along the shoreline just past the hotel. Tennis players can get in a lesson or a game at the nearby Tennis Club de Dinard (the first hour is complimentary for hotel guests). Golfers, meanwhile, are spoiled for choice — there’s the Dinard Golf Club, which dates back to the Belle Époque era, plus acclaimed courses around Saint-Malo and other coastal towns within an hour’s drive.

Whether you’re a total beginner or an experienced rider, the concierge can arrange horseback lessons or treks at Le Val Porée in Dinard, one of the most celebrated equestrian centers in France. It’s open to kids over age 3, with Shetland ponies to accommodate little ones. And of course, in the grand tradition of seaside resorts, water activities abound — try kayaking, paddleboarding, yachting, ocean trampolining or even surfing.

Just for Kids

Le Studio by Petit VIP, an adorable onsite kids’ club housed in a color-drenched space, welcomes children from ages 4 to 12 during French school breaks and public holiday weekends. Programming is designed around the season, and themes rotate daily, from culinary to fine arts and sports to theater. During my late autumn stay, the activities ranged from jewelry making and a sand castle competition to visiting Dinard’s local market to meet some of the area’s food producers. The kids’ club is free for hotel guests (though some activities might incur an extra cost) with the option to add lunch and, on certain evenings, dinner for a fee.

While eating breakfast each morning, I noticed young and enthusiastic kids’ club staffers — or ambassadors, as they’re known — going from table to table to greet the children who would be in their care that day, a sweet touch that each family seemed to appreciate.

Local Area

Less than 7 minutes’ walk or a quick ride from the hotel is Dinard’s main beach, Plage de l’Écluse — a swath of golden sand dotted with blue-and-white striped cabanas that you can rent in season. The water is sheltered and calm, great for younger swimmers, and there are plenty of surrounding cafés for a casual lunch or an ice cream break, plus an open-air saltwater swimming pool that’s filled by the tides. On the seawall above is the glitzy Casino Barrière and its Grand Bain brasserie, perfect for a parents-only excursion while little ones are busy at the hotel kids’ club.

Dinard itself is a pretty, walkable town lined with clusters of appealing boutiques and restaurants. On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings, the lively open-air market in the town center is well worth browsing, with hundreds of stalls selling produce, cheeses, pastries, clothing, jewelry, souvenirs and much more. While you’re out and about, stop to try Brittany’s signature crisp, lacy buckwheat crêpes (galettes de sarrassin), folded in a square around your chosen filling. Crêperies are thick on the ground here; I opted for Crêperie du Roy about 5 minutes’ walk from the hotel, which has simple, rustic decor and excellent food. The quintessential Breton crêpe is the complète (ham, Emmental or Gruyère cheese, and a soft-cooked egg), but whatever you decide on, pair it with one of the region’s crisp, fizzy ciders, traditionally sipped from a ceramic bowl.

Across the road from the hotel, steps lead down to a dock where ferries collect passengers for the 10-minute ride to Saint-Malo. Made famous by Anthony Doerr’s 2014 novel All the Light We Cannot See, the town was a historic corsair stronghold whose walled old city was almost entirely destroyed during World War II and painstakingly rebuilt stone by stone in its aftermath. You can walk the restored ramparts for views over the Channel, wander the narrow streets of the Old Town, visit the medieval cathedral (also reconstructed after the war) or explore the wide beaches that encircle the citadel at low tide.

TIP: Mont Saint-Michel, just under an hour’s drive away, is an easy side trip from Dinard as well. A knowledgeable guide makes a difference, and Ciao Bambino’s Travel Advisors can book one well suited for the ages of your kids.

Getting There and Around

The nearest railway station is in Saint-Malo. Direct trains from Paris take about 2 1/2 to 3 hours, and it’s a further 20 minutes by taxi to Le Grand Hôtel. There are good train connections from Saint-Malo to larger Breton towns, such as Rennes, but if you want to explore the countryside or some of the small villages along the coast, it’s best to rent a car or arrange for a driver.

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Ciao Bambino received a media package in order to review Le Grand Hôtel Dinard. As always, our opinions are our own. Photos by Lisa Frederick except where noted.

Editor’s note: This post was accurate when published. We advise checking independently for the latest information and updates. Ciao Bambino does not accept responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in, or for any actions taken based on, the information presented.