Why September is the Best Time to Visit Saint-Tropez

Mention Saint-Tropez and most people picture Champagne-drenched yachts, rollicking beach parties and Brigitte Bardot zipping around in a bikini on the back of a Vespa. Truth is, most of that jet-set posturing lives up to the hype, though the former starlet, who turns 91 in September, is rarely seen out of her gated abode these days. While this over-the-top side of Saint-Tropez is indeed a slice of the village’s narrative (and a fun one at that), it’s far from the whole story.

Saint-Tropez in September: The Sweet Spot Between Summer and Fall

I’ve been coming here for nearly two decades, long enough to have danced through its wild summer nights and disco-fueled dawns, watched the last leaves fall from the plane trees and strolled through near-empty streets at Christmas, when Santons in the ancient churches outnumber the yachts in the harbor.

Part sailor’s haven, part artist’s muse, part Provençal village and part A-list darling, each seasonal thread is an essential piece of the Saint-Tropez of today. But it’s in September that these strands of braided history and lifestyle weave together in a way that reveals exactly why this sherbet-hued village earns its mythical status.

Maritime Magic

Saint-Tropez in September is a different kind of dream, the kind you hope never ends. The weather remains warm enough for alfresco lunches and lazy afternoons by the hotel pool, but there’s a whisper of fall in the evening air. With fewer crowds and more room to breathe, the village relaxes into its true self, leaving just a soupçon of summer glamour shimmering in the background.

Though the high season is in retreat, the excitement doesn’t disappear. September in Saint-Tropez is all about sailing and a dip into the village’s maritime legacy. With two fantastic events in town, the atmosphere is both festive and refined. First up is France’s only SailGP event, the ROCKWOOL France Sail Grand Prix. It takes place over two days in mid-September, with 12 foiling catamarans racing at breakneck speed mere feet from the harbor wall.

Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, one of the Med’s most prestigious regattas, blows in at the end of the month, bringing a spectacle of wind, water and sportsmanship to the village as dozens of classic and modern sailing yachts slice through the Gulf of Saint-Tropez’s sapphire waters.

Yes, the rosé still flows, but without as much pretense or as many selfies, especially at places like nautical-themed Le Sube, a haunt for residents, visitors and seafarers to raise a glass at sunset and watch the sun’s long end-of-summer rays cast their golden glow over the port.

For those longing to get on the water, rent a yacht or boat for the day and let a captain take you to some of the area’s best swimming holes and hidden coves, or to Pampelonne if you want one last dose of beach club glam (many close by late September, so check ahead). Ciao Bambino’s Travel Advisors can help curate an elegant, low-key September excursion, whether it’s swimming off Cap Taillat or enjoying a catered lunch on deck.

Rosé & Village Life

Rosé all day is a meme, a mantra and definitely a way of life on the French Riviera, especially during summer. But some might be surprised to learn that just outside Saint-Tropez are undulating hills plump with grapes used to make the area’s favorite pink drink. But more than a beloved elixir for the well-heeled and day-drinkers, the wines produced in the region are some of the finest in the world.

Harvest season between mid-August and the end of September is prime time to get your grape on. With family-run estates like Château Minuty, Domaine du Bourrian and Domaine Fondugues-Pradugues nearby, one of the best things to do in September is book tastings, cooking classes, vineyard lunches or even a breezy tour through the vines in a vintage Citroën 2CV, if you like your wine with a side of quirky French cars.

Meanwhile, back in the village, the pace slows to a more civilized hum. Boutique and café owners slide back into their regular rhythm of offering friendly bonjours to shoppers. Even the twice-weekly market in the Place des Lices on Tuesdays and Saturdays is more navigable, with no rogue strollers nipping your ankles or elbows to the ribs from Instagrammers battling for the best olive and cheese shot.

Be sure to wander the narrow cobbled streets and pick up a September-in-Saint-Tropez souvenir at Rondini, where artisans have been handcrafting leather sandals since 1927 and will fit them to your feet on the spot. If you’re going to stroll, you might as well do it in shoes as timeless as the town itself.

Around Saint-Tropez, at brasserie tables and barstools, locals begin to reclaim their turf, ordering cinquante et un pastis and dishing town gossip. Grab a coffee or lunch at Le Sporting and watch fierce pétanque rivalries unfurl under the century-old plane trees on Place des Lices. Belly up to the oyster bar at La Fine Équipe Chez Madeleine for stacked platters of seafood and chilled-out vibes on Place aux  Herbes. Or venture out to Chez Camille on the wild edge of Pampelonne Beach for a homemade bouillabaisse that would make Poseidon proud. Wherever you land, enjoy the show. It’s theater; it’s tradition; and no one’s in a hurry.

Take a Hike

One of the best things to do in Saint-Tropez is to see its wild side, and I’m not talking about popping magnums at midnight. Because Saint-Tropez’s weather in mid- to late September is just right, one of my favorite things to do is hit the Sentier du Littoral, the coastal trail that snakes along nearly all of France’s seaside edges. This path feels like a secret interlude with nature — barely marked in spots, it hugs the peninsula’s rugged shoreline, dips through pine-scented woods, passes in front of jaw-dropping villas I pretend are mine (just for a moment), and winds around secret beaches and turquoise coves.

Pack plenty of water, slap on sunscreen and lace up shoes sturdier than espadrilles. A good place to start is near the Tour du Portalet. Keep your eyes peeled for subtle dashes of yellow paint on wooden signs marked pietons (pedestrians) or Sentier du Littoral; they’re your breadcrumbs on this coastal adventure. En route, you’ll pass Saint-Tropez’s Marine Cemetery, one of the rare seaside cemeteries in France, where village residents, soldiers and French notables such as the singer Pierre Bachelet, filmmaker Roger Vadim, actress Thérèse Dorny and painter André Dunoyer de Segonzac were laid to rest.

After a few hours, return to the village and reward yourself with lunch or dinner at beloved La Ponche, or sink your toes in the sand with a chilled glass of something local in hand at Les Graniers. Either way, you’ve earned it.

Art & History

Long before Saint-Tropez became the playground of yacht hoppers, it was a sleepy fishing village bathed in the golden Mediterranean light that lured artists to its shores. Chief among them was the sea-loving neo-Impressionist Paul Signac, a Parisian painter who put down roots in Saint-Tropez in 1892 and immortalized the village through his work.

Art lovers can meander through galleries hidden behind old stone walls and pastel shutters, but don’t skip the Musée de l’Annonciade. Housed in a 16th-century chapel right on the port, this gem offers a surprising treasure trove of Post-Impressionist art. Expect masterpieces by Signac, Henri Matisse and others who found their inspiration on the French Riviera.

History buffs, and anyone with a fondness for old cannons and sweeping vistas, should climb to the citadel. This 17th-century stone guardian of the village conceals a museum in its dungeon, which chronicles Saint-Tropez’s rich seafaring past. As a bonus, the views over the terracotta rooftops and sparkling sea from the top will blow your Panama hat off.

For something a little more serene, head just outside the town to the stunning palm-fringed park surrounding the Chateau de la Moutte. This Provençal bastide once belonged to Émile Ollivier, Napoleon III’s last prime minister and a man who, I can only assume, recognized a sweet real estate deal when he saw one. Today, visitors can explore the abode on guided afternoon tours, which include the library, home to over 4,000 volumes that include works by Hugo, Balzac, Voltaire and Rousseau. The castle also opens its doors to the public during the European Heritage Days, held the third weekend of September.

Where to Stay

Luxury hotels, guest houses and just about everything in between are on the table when it comes to places to stay in Saint-Tropez. Here are a few of our favorites. A tip: Ciao Bambino’s Travel Advisors can book these accommodations for you with exclusive perks like complimentary upgrades, early check-in/late check-out, breakfast credits and more — click here to get info.

Hotel Byblos has been a magnet for Riviera revelers and sun worshippers since opening its doors in 1967. Located within walking distance of the Place des Lices, the port and the haute couture boutiques of Rue François Sibilli, the Byblos remains a go-to for those who want to stay and play in Saint-Tropez. Its 86 rooms and suites are generously sized, including four that have been recently glowed up with colorful prints and textures by Parisian designer Laura Gonzalez. Food and beverage venues include Il Giardino, overseen by executive chef Nicola Canuti; the new B Lounge, the hotel’s poolside bar and restaurant; and most notably, the new rooftop bar, Sky Bar (a first for the hotel). The famed Les Caves du Roy nightclub onsite adds to the hotel’s enduring allure.

On a wild, pine-covered hill above Gigaro Beach, just outside Saint-Tropez, Lily of the Valley is a modern wellness retreat designed by Philippe Starck. Featuring 44 rooms and suites, each with earthy tones and expansive sea views, Lily boasts two pools, gourmet health-conscious dining and a state-of-the-art spa. The hotel’s private beach club offers sunbeds and Mediterranean lunches just steps from the surf. A complimentary shuttle service to the village can be arranged, and wine tasting is conveniently nearby. Another perk? The hotel is open year-round.

Perched between the village and Pampelonne Beach, Airelles Saint-Tropez, Château de la Messardière is a family-friendly, self-contained property surrounded by 32 acres of pine, cypress and jasmine-scented gardens. After an extensive renovation, the Palace-status property reopened in July 2021 as part of the luxurious Airelles Collection. Highlights include six bars and restaurants, a dedicated kids’ club, a private beach club and 103 rooms and suites in various sizes and configurations ideal for multigenerational stays.

For seaborne sojourns, the Ritz-Carlton Yacht Collection offers itineraries that include stops in St. Tropez in September.

Relevant Links:

Browse all family-friendly destinations and accommodations in France on Ciao Bambino

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Photos by Kimberley Lovato except where noted.

Editor’s note: This post was accurate when published. We advise checking independently for the latest information and updates. Ciao Bambino does not accept responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions in, or for any actions taken based on, the information presented.